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12-Mar-2020 11:20 by 9 Comments

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He took up a range of other water skills, including windsurfing, paddleboard and surf-ski racing, and eventually the old Australian skill of surf-boat racing, which he mastered with the same serene sense of control he’d exhibited in his surfing.

Despite contracting stomach cancer — to his own surprise, he had a significant tumor removed in 2014 — he continued to surf beautifully until very recently in the beachbreaks near his Palm Beach home. My Dad & shaper Max Wetteland brought him over to SA to give an exhibition at the country's first pro contest & us gremmies got a first look at one of the world's greatest surfers in the flesh. Lucky Midget’s 1964 world title and subsequent business relationship with the equally iconoclastic late Max Wetteland from Durban contributed significantly to the development and growth of surfing in South Africa in the 60’s. Went to Maurtius in July I think around 1990 and saw this hippy looking guy with a single fin at the airport and then later met him at Tamarin Bay . So thanks Midget “There was nothing fixed about it. freedom from other people’s ideas.” This is what drew me to a life of surfing, and I'm sure many others.

His apparent withdrawal from a public surfing life belies the profound respect in which he was held by the numerous champion Australian surfers who followed his lead over the past 52 years.

To these surfers, Midget was always up for a chat; if you were lucky, he’d give you a look at the monkeypod-wood Hawaiian warrior sculpture — the Makaha trophy — of which he was most proud.

The rivalry became a trope of Australian surfing history. But Midget refused to fight such a war, instead retreating into the private spaces of family and personal surfing time.

He disliked Nat’s counter-culture, but disliked even more being defined by his opposition to it.

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