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A mix of African, Arab and French culture, our guide is adamant that "Tunisia is totally different from other Arab cultures".
But history is never far away in this North African country and later we visit the art deco George Sebastian villa, an architectural jewel of a mansion which is now an International Cultural Centre.Nearby, the famous Bardo museum is situated in the 13th century Hafsid palace, in what used to be countryside but now is part of the Tunis' suburbs.Both the building and its contents: Punic, Roman and early Christian collections attest to the cosmopolitanism of Tunisian history; Moorish traditions compete with Italianate influences.General Rommel used the house as his headquarters for about five weeks during World War II, Churchill wrote some of his memoirs here, and other luminaries as disparate as Margaret Thatcher and Meryl Streep have visited this beautiful building.With its clear blue swimming pool and sunken marble baths (which allow four people to bathe together) it whispers of a decadence long past and yet remembered between its marble floors and high airy ceilings.Unlike its Roman counterpart, El Jem is access-all-areas.
You can climb to the very top of its spectator balconies and imagine gladiators and lions beneath you, ready to battle to the death, purely for your debauched entertainment.Today Carthage is a wealthy suburb of Tunis but the scattered remains of its once powerful sea-based empire are set majestically before the Mediterranean, amidst the glorious scent of rosemary and mint.As the morning sun shimmers on these ancient stones I imagine Hannibal and his elephants tramping here all the way from Spain, only to be vanquished by the Romans.We walk the ancient, narrow - almost translucent - cobblestone streets; bougainvillea and palm trees proliferate and the Mediterranean view of the Bay of Tunis is picture-postcard.Amidst the blue and white walled buildings, elderly men play dominoes, street-sellers proffer hawks to tourists and pipe-smoking locals watch the world go by as they rest on rickety, raffia covered chairs. The following day we head to Hammamet, passing a military base which, says our guide impishly, only appeared on Google maps after the revolution.Make your ten year old watch while you say "chicken nuggets" to him, if you're feeling particularly evil.